Pen Mandrels Pen Kits Fountain Pens Rollerball Pens

Closed-end Pen Mandrels
(Patented)

Please read the Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges before ordering.

Closed-end Cocobolo Baron rollerball pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson

What is a closed ended pen? The picture above illustrates two Baron rollerball pens. The normal Baron has threads on the end of the pen to allow for the posting of the cap when the pen is being used. The exposed threads are necessary but not overly attractive. The closed end design allows for the removal of the threaded portion allowing for a more streamline and finished appearance. The pen's cap will not post (screw on) when the closed end design is utilized.

This mandrel makes the creation of a closed-end pen a very easy process. Unlike 'pin' chucks, this mandrel expands to securely support the tube. This mandrel requires the use of a three-jawed chuck, a Jacob's chuck (see below) or a collet chuck (we do not carry the collet chucks).

Closed-end Mandrels

Baron or Sedona Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the Baron / Sedona (lower barrel) closed-end (CE-1)mandrel Click Here . Cost is $21.99

To order an extra bushing for the Baron / Sedona (CEB-1)mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.95

Example of a cherry burl Baron cap end closed end pen made and photographed by Bob Altig
To make this pen you need a Baron cap end closed-end mandrel and a Baron closed-end mandrel

To order the Baron / Sedona (cap - upper barrel) closed-end (CE-2) mandrel Click Here .

Cost is $21.99

To order an extra bushing for the Baron / Sedona (cap - upper barrel) (CEB-2) closed-end mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.95

El Grande and Churchill Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the El Grande / Churchill (lower barrel) closed-end (CE-3) pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $27.99

To order an extra bushing for the El Grande / Churchill (lower barrel) (CEB-3) mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.95

To order the El Grande / Churchill (cap end -upper barrel) (CE-4) closed-end pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $27.99

To order an extra bushing for the (cap end upper barrel) closed end (CEB-4) El Grande / Churchill mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.95

Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II and Jr. Statesman II Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro (lower barrel) (CE-5)closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $23.99

To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro (lower barrel) mandrel (CEB-5) Click Here .
Cost is $4.95

To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro (cap end upper barrel) (CE-6) closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $23.99

To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro (cap end upper barrel) (CEB-6) mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $4.95

El Toro Fountain Pens

To order the El Toro cap end upper barrel CE-8 closed-end mandrel Click Here . Cost is $26.99

To order the El Toro cap end upper barrel CEB-8 closed-end mandrel bushing Click Here . Cost is $4.95

To order an extra bushing for the El Toro mandrel CEB-7 Click Here. Cost is $4.95

El Toro Closed-End Pen

Stabilized Madrone burl and Redwood burl with custom Ebonite couplers
Crafted by Dan Symonds, Houston, Texas

The entire pen weighs sixth-tenths of an ounce!

Our trademark CNC'd into the cap
(the pen's clip is on the opposite side of the logo)
El Presidente Pens
To order the El Presidente lower barrel closed-end pen mandrel CE-7 Click Here . Cost is $26.99

To order an extra bushing for the El Presidente lower barrel CEB-7 mandrel Click Here. Cost is $4.95

Craft Supplies USA Gentleman and Statesman Rollerball and Fountain Pens,
Majestic Rollerball & Fountain Pens

To order the Gentleman/Statesman/Majestic closed-end lower barrel CE-9 pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $26.99

To order an extra bushing for the Gentleman/Statesman/Majestic lower barrel CEB-9 mandrel Click Here. Cost is $4.95

Cigar Ballpoint Pens

To order the Cigar closed-end upper barrel pen mandrel CE-10 Click Here . Cost is $23.99

To order an extra bushing for the Cigar Closed- End upper barrel mandrel CEB-10 Click Here. Cost is $4.95

Spalted maple closed-end Cigar pen
made and photographed by
Robert Hoenisch

Both closed-end cigar pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson

Want to learn how to make a closed-end Cigar pen? Click Here

7mm Cap End Closed-end pen mandrel
The bushing supplied will make a cap end closed-end 7mm European pen
To order the 7mm cap end upper barrel closed-end mandrel CE-11 Click Here .
Cost is $21.99

To order an extra bushing for the 7mm Closed- End upper barrel mandrel CEB-11 Click Here. Cost is $4.95

Drill Chuck

We now carry a heavy duty 1/2" drill chuck and arbor to hold the different
closed-end mandrels. This chuck can also be used for many other projects as well.

Click here to order the drill chuck with #2MT arbor. Price is $29.75

Click Here to order the drill chuck with a #1MT arbor. Price is $29.75

Using Arizona Silhouette's Mandrel To Make A
Closed-end Baron Pen

The following photo tutorial will describe how to prepare, turn and finish a closed-end Baron rollerball and/or fountain pen using this mandrel. In this example we'll be using Tulipwood.

The very cool thing about this mandrel is the expansion nut design. Its main feature is when the nut is tightened the opposite end of the mandrel expands in two directions keeping the blank perfectly centered relative to the mandrel. Alternatively, common pin-chuck designs lock the blank in place by rolling a loose pin up against one inside surface of the blank's brass tube, often causing an out-of-round turning, where one side of the finished blank's wall is thinner than the opposite side.

To make a closed end Baron pen, you'll need a blank that is at least 3" long. Drill a 25/64" hole down the center of the blank, exactly 2 7/8" deep.

And here's a special tip...the lower barrel hole is drilled deeper than normal so you've got clearance for the rollerball innards, resulting in the stock brass tube not bottoming out in the hole. In fact, the stock brass tube is almost an inch shorter than the hole's required depth. The problem is that when you go to press fit the ring and threaded end-piece into the finished lower barrel opening, the glue may give way and the brass will work it's way further down the hole, resulting in nothing to press fit into. My solution is to custom cut brass tubes to the exactly length of the hole's depth. That way the brass tube bottoms out at the bottom of the hole and will always be in the proper position for the press fit operation. Here's a link to longer 10mm brass tubes that can be purchased if you choose to adopt this alternative approach...gluing long tubes in the deep hole.

All photos z Ed Davidson

Make sure the mandrel is all the way in, with the bushing face flush up against the blank's end.

I'm using two box wrenches in this example to tighten the end-nut just enough so the blank is "locked" in position and will not spin around the mandrel shaft.

Next, mount the mandrel's exposed shaft in a drill or scroll chuck and tighten the chuck's jaws down snuggly against the mandrel shaft.

Here you can see that the mandrel has been mounted in a # 2 MT drill chuck so that about 1/4" of clearance between the end of the blank and the chuck is exposed...you'll need this 1/4" space to get your cutting tools in position for the finish cuts. Also note that the tailstock has been brought up to the opposite end of the blank, adding support for the piece while turning.

The blank has been turned into a cylinder, about 1/16" proud of the mandrel's bushing. In this example, I've left the blank extra long...about 4". Note that the hole inside the blank must be 2 7/8" deep to allow space for the roller ball's innards.

Using a sharp skew or parting tool, mark a ring on the blank that is at least 3" to the right of the headstock end of the blank's end. This mark indicates where the end of the finished pen will be and will help calibrate the shape and design of your finished blank.

I like beads...using a thin parting tool, make the first of two cuts, on the left side of the headstock end of the turning.

Here you can see the first cut that has been made at about a 45 degree angle.

Now using the point of a skew or thin parting tool, make the bead's second (right-side) cut.

Now I'll be using a 1/2" round nosed scraper to make some decorative cove cuts in the blank.

Here I'm using a skew to make decorative cuts in the lower barrel's end.

The thin parting tool is used to make a final end cut, separating the lower barrel form waste wood.

And here, the thin parting tool is used to clean up the end-cut.

While the piece is still on the lathe, sand as you normally would. I'm sanding with 180, 320 and 400 grit papers.

After sanding, apply a coat of Sanding Sealer with a brush or paper towel. Be sure to wipe off the excess sealer before it dries to avoid a clumpy looking surface.

Remove the mandrel from the chuck.

I'm using the mandrel's exposed shaft as a handle, buffing the piece with Tripoli and White Diamond compounds, using the Beall system.

Next, apply a coat of Renaissance Wax, wait about 30 seconds and buff the piece out on a third clean buffing wheel.

Then wait about 15 minutes, apply a second coat of Renaissance Wax and repeat the final buffing process. By the way, there is just enough time between these two Renaissance Wax applications to turn another pen if you have a second mandrel.

This photo shows all of the hardware included with a Baron pen kit. The four parts shown at the bottom of this photo will not be used and may be discarded or saved as spares.

Put a drop or two of medium thick CA down the center of the finished lower barrel, then drop in the tension spring. Let the CA dry thoroughly before going further in the assembly process. Finally, assemble the pen as you normally would.

And here is the finished Rollerball Baron made with Tulipwood.

The adjustable closed-end mandrel is available exclusively through Arizona Silhouette

Please read the Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges before ordering.